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But in a joint family home in Jaipur, this is the hour of secrets. The grandmother, or Daadi , sits on her charpai (woven cot), fanning herself with a palm leaf. She calls over her granddaughter. "Come," she whispers, pulling out a tin of mithai (sweets). "Eat before the boys wake up." As the child eats the sticky gulab jamun , Daadi tells a story from the Ramayana , but twists it with a local folktale about a ghost who lives in the banyan tree. This is how culture survives—not in textbooks, but in whispered stories passed over sweets during the languid, hot afternoon.

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